| Affordable vintage costume jewelry |
The term "costume jewelry" didn't come about until sometime in the 1920's, although
people in ancient times wore jewelry to adorn themselves like we do today with costume
and fine jewelry. While varied and complex, basic periods in jewelry history are typically
described in these jewelry and fashion movements.
Ancient Jewelry
People transformed natural shells, stones, sticks, animal teeth, and other materials into
decorations to wear around their necks or in crude earrings. By 3,000 BC trade routes had
been formed to link major continents of Europe, Africa and the Middle East, bringing with
them various metals, stones, and manners of making jewelry. Ancient Iraq discovered
you could use gold to make jewelry of incomparable beauty. Egyptian styled jewelry was
taken by trade routes to all parts of the Mediterranean Ocean and techniques were refined
at each step of the way. By 300 BC, much of jewelry design had become uniform and gold
was used by everyone, along with other metals, rock crystals, pearls, and stones.
Medieval and Byzantine jewelry styles developed, with the Christian Crusades helping to
pass along techniques and gems. Icons From the 14th to the 17th centuries (The
European Renaissance), much Christian, classicism and Greek and Roman art, literature,
and jewelry flourished. Spain and Europe became increasingly fashion and status
conscious which fueled the need for more and more fabulous jewelry using
semi-precious stones, better and more complex techniques and varying motifs. In the
17th century, multiple pearls were used as decorations for clothing and jewelry, and
imitation pearls were born in Paris, France.
Georgian Period - Georgian Jewelry
In the late 1700's imitation or fake jewelry techniques spread to England. Steel was also
used. Jeweled buttons, and uncut garnets became fashionable. The Georgian period of
British history was from about 1714 to 1830 during the reigns of the four English kings
named George. Jewelry from this period is very rare. Many styles of jewelry were
produced, all were handmade and is signified by engraved gemstones and intaglios and
cabochons with nature-inspired designs like leaves and birds.
Victorian Period - Victorian Jewelry, Mourning Jewelry
In the 18th century, as the need in Europe grew, less expensive, imitation stones were
developed in Bohemia (Czechoslovakia). Technologies were increased, machine cutting
of stones discovered and the whole process became affordable to many more people. By
the time Victoria became queen of England (1837-1901) the mass production of jewelry
made it even more common in Europe and America. In 1854, gold content was
standardized and required to be stamped in hallmarks. Diamonds were discovered in
1867 in Africa and became popular and frequently set in white metal to enhance their
beauty. Wrist watches were being produced. Natural design themes like trees and flowers
were used with elaborate engravings. Amethysts, seed pearls, human hair, cameos, jet
and coral were popular, as was Egyptian styles due to the archaeological expeditions in
Egypt and Italy. Queen Victoria's husband Prince Albert died, and she declared the country
in mourning, and somber, heavy jewelry was worn to express grief. Mourning jewelry
became common. Sentimental jewelry was popular, like lockets, inscriptions, and
symbols of love. By the time the Queen died, European women were not happy with some
machine made jewelry and rebelled against industrialization. A move towards more
artistic, free-form and creative jewelry was born.
Arts and Crafts Movement - Arts and Crafts Jewelry
From about 1894-1923, due to the Industrial Revolution, many jewelry designers rebelled
against the machinery and mass production of items and returned instead of handmade
craftsmanship. Simple patterns with colorful uncut stones were popular.
Art Nouveau Period - Art Nouveau Jewelry
A short-lived period in history (about 1890-1910), the Art Nouveau movement was radically
different from Victorian somberness and mass production. Restrictions were taken away
and creative and romantic energies produced jewelry that mimicked life: animals, plants,
flowers, realistic and fantasy, and different techniques of enameling was brought to the
fore. Femininity was celebrated, along with soft curves, opals, moonstones, citrines and
carved glass. Pastel colors, flowing curves and stylized designs are indicative of this
period. Swarovski created a new glass cutting machine in 1891 which made rhinestones
dazzling and cheap and changed the jewelry business forever. In 1907 Bakelite,
considered the first plastic, was invented.
The Edwardian Period - Edwardian Jewelry, Romantic Jewelry
From 1901 to 1910, King Edward VII succeeded to the throne of England. Jewelry was very
filigree or lace-like and elaborate and diamonds and platinum were common in this
period. Big jewelry firms like Tiffany were improving the settings and cuts of diamond
jewelry, and diamonds were made to look fine and delicate. Platinum is used extensively
and open work designs with scalloped edges were popular.
Art Deco Movement - Art Deco Jewelry, Geometric Jewelry
The prosperity and wealth of prior periods was brought to an end by the start of World War
I. Mostly an American phenomenon, Art Deco derived it's name from the Exposition of
Decorative Arts and Modern Manufactures in Paris in 1925. Design had become centered
around geometry and symmetry in everything from jewelry to sky scrapers. Bold colors
and design were the craze. Gemstones were cut in shapes (pears, emeralds, marquise)
seldom seen before, and inexpensive stones were mixed with expensive ones. Emeralds,
sapphires, and rubies were gems of choice. Bakelite, it was being discovered as a great
medium for making jewelry. Bangle bracelets and cocktail rings were in; cameos and
lockets were out of fashion. The Art Deco movement ended with the coming of the Great
Depression and World War II and is generally attributed to the years 1920 to 1935.
Flapper length necklaces were popular. In 1931 Lucite was invented.
The Retro Movement - Retro Jewelry
From about 1935 to the 1950's American jewelry came into the limelight. Fashion houses
in Paris closed and America became the focus for ready-to-wear garments and costume
jewelry flourished. Hollywood movie stars influenced jewelry and flamboyant, oversized
pieces were in vogue. Colorful, elaborate pieces were worn including charm bracelets
and cocktail rings. Jewelry was more whimsical and gold was regaining popularity.
During World War II, brass was outlawed for use in jewelry, as it was needed to make
bullets. Lucite and Bakelite were used in a lot of jewelry. Czech and Austrian rhinestones
and much jewelry from France and Europe was not imported to the U.S. At the end of the
war, bigger and bolder was the fashion craze, with oversized bracelets, watches, and
rings, and synthetic rubies and other gemstones making a comeback. Jewelry made
completely of rhinestones was made. Rhinestone parures were very popular. In the
1990's platinum came back in fashion.
Modern Period - Mod Jewelry
In 1953 the Aurora Borealis process was developed. It allowed a fabulous rainbow of
colors to be reflected off rhinestones and has been a huge hit ever since. The hippie
movement in the 1960's brought newfound interest in natural materials for jewelry, and
handmade, natural jewelry made a comeback. From the 1960's through the end of the
millennium, gold jewelry was mostly made of yellow gold. The 60's and 70's saw an influx
of atomic styles, plastics, Lucite, mod jewelry, bangles, and boisterous, flamboyant,
design-inspired costume and jewelry. Slave bracelets, bright bold flowers, and peace
symbols. The 1970s saw a lot of patriotic colors due to the bicentennial of the U.S. and the
rhinestone came back in fashion, and became extremely popular in the disco generation
of the 1980s.
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Historical Jewelry Periods
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